Au Passage
Au Passage quickly rose to the top as one of my favorite restaurants in 2014 and has remained a steady contender ever since. Of course, I may never be able to remove cult favorite Chez l’Ami Jean from its post as my all time favorite restaurant, but I’ve definitely eaten at Au Passage more than any other restaurant in Paris.
And that’s saying a lot. KnowwhatI’msayin?
I eat a lot. That’s what I’m saying.
To me, Au Passage hits all the highest marks for things that I cherish in a restaurant:1. High quality products – From meat to eggs to produce, it’s always fresh. I mean look at that table just loaded up with produce from the market.
2. A frequently changing menu – One time I ate there for lunch and dinner on the same day, and when I told them I was coming back for dinner, they started remaking the menu for the night. Twice in one day, I would say, is pretty frequent. And impressive.
3. A fun, bustling atmosphere – If you go on a Monday night, you’ll likely see many great chefs on their night off. That’s a trade secret for chef lovers. There is something just casual and friendly and filled with anticipation here. It’s laid back and bustling and filled to the brim every night with clinking and laughter and conversation.
4. An interesting wine list – Mostly natural wine, here. Lurv it.
5. Attractive chef – Hey, it’s not a Michelin guide, it’s a list of things I like. Now, this won’t make me seek out a restaurant or go back to it if the food isn’t standout. That would make you hideous anyway.
But it sure makes for the ultimate dining experience when the kitchen displays aesthetic quality. Double points awarded to Au Passage for having more than one attractive chef, and an added bonus that a man bun was once involved. Those were the glory days.

Aesthetic kitchen decoration: Edward Delling-Williams, Peter Orr (now at Martin Boire & Manger), and fellow food lover Raphaële Marchal of http://enrangdoignons.fr
The man bun, once belonging to head chef Edward Delling-Williams, has long since been removed. A couple years ago when I first started frequenting Au Passage, I referred to Edward as “Pirate Chef”, as seemed fitting, until I found out his real name. A year or so later, when I exclaimed, “New haircut!”, he replied, “I feel as though I’ve lost my super powers.” You have, Edward. You have.
That’s a lie.
He’s married now, with child, so just back off, ladies. That ship has sailed.
The pirate chef has sailed away from Au Passage, as well. He officially left at the end of December in pursuit of his own restaurant, which has me on the edge of my freakin’ seat. I have no doubt it will be a massive hit, and you should probably reserve for 9 nights in a row as soon as you have the chance.
I’m sorry, but doesn’t this lamb just take your breath away? I am breathless looking at this lamb. Out of breath. Heart struck. Cupid and me and this lamb.
Au Passage, and Edward, consistently delivered awesomeness.
Fresh, seasonal, small plates for the table to share, perfectly seasoned and always changing. You can come to Au Passage over and over, try loads of different things, and always get something new. That’s what makes dining at this restaurant a new and exciting experience every time, like going to a new restaurant but having a guarantee that you’ll like it.
I’m positive that Au Passage will maintain its integrity as a fantastic restaurant, just as it did when it transitioned from having James Henry (ex-Bones) as its head chef. The same manager that oversees this and its sister restaurant, Martin Boire et Manger, will keep things in tip top shape.
Bonus: Lots of restaurants produce great food, but Au Passage delivers great food and atmosphere for an incredible price value. Since it’s small plates to share from the big chalkboard, you can walk out paying 35-40€ per person with wine. Good food at that price is relatively impossible to find in Paris.
Ultra bonuses: You can reserve online, you can walk up late night to snag a table, and it’s open on Monday.
This is one of those places you always hope to stumble upon in Paris, the place where locals and foodies go.
The menu is written in French, but if you keep an open mind, you could point to just about anything up there and wind up happy as can be.
Au Passage
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